![]() ![]() Most plants will grow and flower and or fruit best where they have ample moisture and nutrients available during the growing season. Drought resistant plants will need to be well-established, usually 2-3 years at a minimum, in the garden or landscape before they are able to withstand lengthy periods (weeks or months) without supplemental water. These are the basic soil types and moisture levels where this plant will survive, not necessarily thrive. Somewhat drought resistant once well-established. Soil & Moisture: Average moist, generally well-drained soils. Indoor Light: Direct sunlight for flowering, High indirect lightÄirect Sunlight - preferably 4 or more hours of direct sunlight through an unshaded south, east or west facing window High Light - may tolerate no direct sunlight but will need very bright indirect light for 4 or more hours High Indirect Light - bright indirect sunlight for much of the day Medium Light - bright indirect light for 2-4 hours or more Low Light - (few plants can do well under very low indoor light levels but some may tolerate it) no direct sunlight with little bright true sunlight filtering into the area Cool Sunlight or Cool AM(morning) Sunlight - direct sunlight like in an east facing window but not during the heat of the day and will likely also tolerate cool sunlight late in the day, filtered sunlight may also be tolerated. Outdoor Light: Full sun, Mostly sunny, Part shade, Part sunįull Sun - 8 hours or more of direct sunlight Partial Sun or Partial Shade - 4-6 hours of direct sunlight AM Sun or Morning Sun or Cool Sunlight - cool sunlight but usually in the shade during the heat of the day Light Shade - Bright indirect sunlight for much of the day Filtered Shade - may receive some amount of direct moving sunlight like through trees but usually not for any extended period especially during the heat of the day Shade - no or very little direct sunlight, especially not during the heat of the day. If you do not know your zone you can find it by clicking on the " USDA Cold Hardiness Zones" link here or above. For more on stretching your cold hardiness zones see the " "Growing on the Edge Growing Guide". Our zones do not always agree but we try to use our own experience as to what can be depended on to return or have known reputable gardens and or horticulturists to reliably grow that plant in zones that are usually colder but sometimes warmer than what other resources have available. Each zone is separated by 10 oF and the map was updated in 2012. And these are averages, here in zone 8B ('A' represents the colder half of a zone and 'B' represents the warmer half of the zone and they are separated by about 5 oF) we have seen single digits but that is the exception but should be noted by the daring gardener. USDA Cold Hardiness Zones were established to give gardeners, horticulturists, farmers, nurseries, and landscape architects a universal way to describe where a plant will survive with regard to average winter lows for a region. Under poor growing conditions plants may be slightly to significantly smaller, whereas excellent growing conditions can produce larger more vigorous plants. Parentheses are used to indicate that the plant can potentially reach that dimension, although the sizes outside of the parentheses tend to be more typical. Feet are represented by a single quote and inches by a double quote. This is the average expected mature height by width in feet or inches. ![]()
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